Costa Rica's National Parks

Here are valuable information about some of Costa Rica's National Parks.

Arenal National Park

Undisputedly one of Costa Rica's foremost tourist attractions, the highly eruptive Arenal Volcano is the centerpiece of this new national park declared in October of 1994. In addition to including in the national park system what is currently one of the world's most active volcanoes, the area now under park service protection encompasses the watersheds of several rivers and streams that flow into Lake Arenal.

The imposing Arenal Volcano rises in nearly perfect conical form out of the western end of the San Carlos plains. Its periodic eruptions of ash and molten rock, accompanied by thundering sonic blasts, are an unforgettable experience anytime, but become extremely spectacular after dark. When the light of day has dimmed, the glowing red igneous rocks ejected with each eruption trace fiery arches in the night sky before crashing down on the steep slopes and finally extinguishing themselves.

From the 600-meter elevation where visitors are allowed to approach atop a lava flow from the 1968 eruption, Arenal rises another 1000 meters to its 1,633-meter summit, and although the peak is still 3 kilometers away, it is definitely "in your face!"

There is little vegetation or wildlife to be seen in the immediate area of the main viewing site since the effects of the major devastating eruption of 1968 are only slowly being overcome. Nevertheless, this area offers a unique opportunity to witness the early stages of lava flow colonization by a handful of plant species adapted to the task. Farther away there are other areas which escaped direct damage and provide better wildlife viewing in the forested sections, however, as yet the park service does not maintain any well-marked trails in these areas, which include the dormant Volcano Chato to the southeast of Arenal.

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Poás Volcano National Park

Like the other volcanoes in the Central Volcanic Cordillera, the silhouette of Poás Volcano as seen from the Central Valley gives no hint of the power and pent-up fury below the surface. But once at the summit and standing on the crater's rim, it becomes easier to understand the forces that have shaped this region of the planet.

With a diameter of 1.5 km., the active crater is reportedly the widest of any volcano in the world. If it is clear enough to see to the bottom of the 300-meter deep crater, you will surely observe some type of activity ranging from fumaroles to bubbling emissions on the surface of the small rain-filled lake to actual geyser-type eruptions, but it is constantly changing. During the early 1990s, there was enough geyser activity to cause the lake to lose its water by the end of the dry season (April/May); this resulted in increased gaseous emanations that forced the park to close on a few occasions.

Looking to the left of the crater you can see the deleterious effects of the volcanic gases that cause a localized form of acid rain. For several kilometers downwind from the crater the vegetation is brown and dying. On exceptionally clear days you can see the top of Arenal Volcano (60 km. distant) by looking in this direction. If you keep your eye on it long enough, you may be able to see the cloud of ash that accompanies an eruption.

A few meters back down the trail from the active crater overlook, a 1.5 km. trail leads off to Lake Botos, a densely forested dormant crater filled with rain water. A portion of this trail goes through an eerie-looking section of stunted forest. The trunks and branches of the small trees here are gnarled and twisted from the harsh climatic conditions in exposed areas at high elevations. At the Lake Botos overlook you'll be near the highest point in the park which is 2,704 meters.

At this elevation wildlife is not particularly abundant, but there is usually a fair amount of bird activity. Some of the more common species are the Fiery-throated Hummingbird, Sooty-capped Bush-Tanager, Slaty Flowerpiercer, Mountain Eleania, Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush, and Black-and-yellow Silky-Flycatcher.

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Irazú Volcano National Park

At 3,432 meters above sea level, Irazú Volcano is the highest point in the Central Volcanic Cordillera. The gently sloping southern flank with its patchwork pattern of potatoes, cabbages, and other vegetable crops, replaced by bucolic dairy farms at higher elevations, belies the violent past of this sleeping behemoth that looms above the city of Cartago.

Upon nearing the summit the destructive forces of volcanism begin to become more noticeable with the presence of scorched dead tree trunks that are still standing. On top of Irazú you will find several deep craters in this barren windswept terrain that is reminiscent of a moonscape. The high elevation itself, being just above the tree line at this latitude, keeps the vegetation from growing very tall, but the periodic devastating effects of eruptions help to keep plant life rather sparse. Among the few species of birds that live in this habitat are the aptly named Volcano Junco and Volcano Hummingbird.

As with all active volcanoes, the level and type of activity changes periodically, often abruptly. Since the last series of eruptions, between August of 1962 and March of 1965, Irazú's principal crater has only emitted fumarole activity -- but things could change again at any time.

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Rincón de la Vieja National Park

Straddling the Guanacaste Cordillera lies Rincón de la Vieja National Park, invariably a favorite of those fortunate few people privileged enough to have visited the majority of parks in the system. Highlights of this park include six different life zones, abundant wildlife, gorgeous waterfalls, fascinating geothermal features, and an active volcano.

One of the most unique and easily observed aspects of this park is an area known as Las Pailas, a 50 ha. sector on the southern slope of the volcano with numerous kinds of geothermal activity. Bubbling, boiling hot mud springs, sulfur springs, steam vents, and fumaroles are all present in this relatively small area at the base of the volcano.

For those in good physical condition, a hike from the Las Pailas ranger station to the volcano's summit makes for a rigorous full day outing. The walk starts out through a magnificent stand of tropical moist forest where the most striking trees are strangler figs seen in every phase of the process of enveloping the doomed host tree. As the trail continues upwards it enters premontane wet forest and the trees become smaller and covered with epiphytic vegetation.

The last hour and a half (or more) of the hike is on steep, exposed rock rubble that has resulted from past eruptions. Cairns mark the way to the summit since this part of the climb is frequently in the clouds.

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Palo Verde National Park

The Palo Verde sector comprises 13,058 ha. of varied habitats in the lower Tempisque River basin. Of the mangrove forests, dry forests, evergreen forests, old pasture land, and other habitats protected here, the habitat that is primarily responsible for the creation of the park and refuge lands is the extensive marsh area that provides an important wintering ground to many species of migrant North American waterfowl, as well as resident tropical species such as the Jabiru, the largest stork in the New World.

The marshes fill up with rain and occasional flood waters during the wet season. As the dry season progresses, the wetlands are reduced to scattered ponds and puddles at which large concentrations of waterfowl gather. Perhaps the most numerous species are the resident Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks and Northern Jacanas.

Palo Verde also provides vital nesting sites for many native species of birds, the most notable is a small island of mangroves in the middle of the Tempisque River known as Isla Pájaros, or Bird Island (not to be confused with another Isla Pájaros located in the Gulf of Nicoya near Punta Morales). Cattle Egrets, Roseate Spoonbills, Wood Storks, Anhingas, Great Egrets, and Black-crowned Night-Herons all use this island for breeding.

During the dry season, when many of the forest trees are leafless and water is at a premium, wildlife is often quite easily seen, especially if you find a water source and wait quietly for the animals to come by for a drink. Commonly seen mammals at Palo Verde include Collared Peccaries, White-throated Capuchin Monkeys, Howler Monkeys, White-nosed Coatis, White-tailed Deer, and Variegated Squirrels. During the wet season, mosquitoes are quite easily seen.

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Las Baulas Marine National Park

Another newcomer to the list of Costa Rican national parks, Las Baulas was declared to protect two important nesting beaches for the Giant Leatherback Sea Turtle, as well as offshore areas where these large marine reptiles spend their days during the breeding season.

Leatherbacks, known as baulas in Costa Rica, are the largest of the world's seven species of sea turtles, averaging 350 kg. and more than a meter and a half in length. Watching one of these great ancient beasts come ashore at night to continue the age-old tradition of nesting in tropical sands is a very moving experience for most people, although others find the two-hour process a bit more than their patience and interest levels can tolerate.

In Costa Rica, this species can be found nesting at a number of beaches on both coasts, however, two of the more heavily used beaches are Playa Grande (Big Beach) and Playa Langosta (Lobster Beach), to the north and south, respectively, of Tamarindo Beach. Together, the aforementioned two beaches make up Las Baulas Marine National Park.

The nesting season at Las Baulas extends from October through February. When away from their breeding sites, leatherbacks range widely throughout the world's oceans searching for their principal food, jellyfish.

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Tortuguero National Park

The creation of this park in 1970 gave much needed protection to one of the region's most important and unique natural resources: a 22-km. stretch of shoreline that serves as the principal nesting site throughout the western half of the Caribbean Sea for the Atlantic Green Sea Turtle. Watching these great reptiles emerge from the tropical sea and haul their 100+ kg. bodies ashore to lay their eggs under cover of darkness is truly a memorable spectacle. The nesting season for the green turtles extends from July to October.

An even larger species, the Leatherback Sea Turtle, also nests on these beaches from February to April, although most nesting is done in the southern portion of the park, far from the actual village of Tortuguero.

In addition to this vital strip of coastline, Tortuguero National Park protects 18,946 ha. of forested habit and an extensive network of freshwater creeks and lagoons. The aquatic environment is home to 7 species of river turtles, as well as Spectacled Caiman, Southern River Otters, the scarce and hard to see West Indian Manatee, the fierce-looking Alligator Gar -- a fish which has remained nearly unchanged in appearance since prehistoric times -- and numerous other fish species including Atlantic Snook and Atlantic Tarpon which bring anxious anglers to this region from all over the world.

Gliding through the tranquil backwaters in a small boat is as enjoyable and rewarding a way to watch wildlife as you're likely to find anywhere. And even if most of the diverse assortment of rain forest denizens manages to elude your gaze, the experience alone, along with the wonderful forest sounds, make this activity one of the highlights of any visit.

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Manuel Antonio National Park

With a mere 682 ha. of land area, Manuel Antonio is one of the smallest of Costa Rica's national parks. However, with its idyllic beaches, excellent wildlife viewing opportunities, relative ease of access, and good surrounding infrastructure, this is one of the country's most visited parks.

Part of the park's scenic beauty is provided by Cathedral Point, a 72 meter-high point of land that is covered by rain forest. The point was formerly an island just off the mainland, but ocean currents caused the deposition of sand between the two until eventually they were connected, forming a geological feature known as a tombolo. The park's two most frequented beaches, Manuel Antonio and Espadilla Sur, are the sandy arcs on either side of the narrow strip of land that joins Cathedral Point with the mainland.

Due to the diminutive size of the park and the quantity of visitors it receives, much of the wildlife that can still be found here is quite accustomed to human presence and will allow close approach, particularly the White-throated Capuchin Monkeys, Central American Squirrel Monkeys, Brown-throated Three-toed Sloths, White-nosed Coatis, Central American Agoutis and Ctenosaur Lizards. [Note: These are still wild animals and should be respected and treated as such, enjoy the opportunity for a close look, but do not attempt to touch or feed them!]

This is one of the best places in Costa Rica to see Brown-throated Three-toed Sloths. These fascinating, but slow-moving animals feed exclusively on plant material -- the low-energy diet results in their slow metabolism -- and though they are known to eat the leaves of more than 100 species of trees and vines, they are most easily seen when feeding (or resting) in Cecropia trees.

Cecropias are common pioneer trees with large palmate leaves and ringed trunks that make them easy to recognize. The abundance of cecropias and other second growth species in the park is probably in part responsible for the high sloth population.

This is also one of only two areas in the country where the endangered Central American Squirrel Monkey is found. These are the smallest of the four monkey species in Costa Rica, and the only ones without a prehensile tail. They forage actively for insects and fruit in large groups of 30 or more individuals.

Butterflies, birds, and large colorful land crabs are more of the plentiful inhabitants that provide interest during a trail walk through the park. And, if the waters are clear enough, a variety of marine life can be seen by snorkeling around the rocky ends of either beach.

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Corcovado National Park

Among tropical biologists and naturalists the name "Corcovado" has taken on almost mythical significance. The fabled reputation of this vast tract of tropical rain forest (41,788 ha.) is not without justification.

The forests themselves, especially those on the ridges and hillsides, have a natural magnificence about them that inspires reverence. Many of the largest trees that grow to heights of 50 meters or more sport enormous buttresses around their bases. Upon close inspection, a botanist could discover as many as 100 different species of trees on any given hectare in this habitat. And that's just trees! Consider all of the varied kinds of vines, shrubs, and epiphytes and you've got an incredibly diverse flora.

Such varied plant life forms the base for a tremendously diverse fauna, from insects on up. For example, it has been estimated that as many as 10,000 insect species may inhabit Corcovado, and researchers have identified 42 species of frogs, 28 species of lizards, 123 species of butterflies, and 16 species of hummingbirds. All six species of felines found in Costa Rica are known to exist in this wilderness area, as are the four native species of monkeys. Additionally, Corcovado supports the country's largest populations of White-lipped Peccaries and Scarlet Macaws, both greatly endangered species due to loss of habitat and hunting or trapping by man.

This great biological diversity still exists in Corcovado because of its remoteness and the fact that most of the park has suffered relatively little disturbance by humans in the past.

For serious backpackers, Corcovado offers a trail system (although much of this is along hot, open beaches) between the six different ranger stations where you can camp with prior permission.

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Chirripó National Park

Known as the home of Costa Rica's highest peak, Mount Chirripó, images of stunted alpine vegetation and bare rock are most often associated with this park. Nonetheless, the 50,150 hectares that comprise the park actually contain a variety of other fascinating ecosystems and on the 10-hour hike to the shelters on top of the mountain one passes through lower montane rain forest and montane rain forest, before finally emerging into subalpine rain paramo. The high humidity and abundant precipitation foster the luxuriant growth of mosses, bromeliads, and other epiphytes on the trunks and branches of the forest trees, of which the predominant species are several types of truly majestic live oaks (Quercus spp.).

As the tree line is neared, the vegetation becomes more and more stunted until at an elevation of about 3,300 meters the paramo begins. This is a conglomeration of low-growing plants that have evolved various adaptations for dealing with the harsh climate at the summit which is characterized by intense ultraviolet radiation, abrupt temperature change, high rainfall, and frequent frosts.

But don't despair, the weather could be worse! Ample geologic evidence is present on the summit of the Chirripó massif to indicate that some 25,000 years ago the area was covered by glacial ice. This glacier formed during the last of the Great Ice Ages when much of the northern hemisphere was also beneath ice, although the Chirripó glacier was not connected to those glaciers. A dozen or more small glacial lakes, piles of rounded rocks (moraines), and U-shaped valleys are all mute testimony to the existence of the former ice cover.

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